The Kosher Sommelier KosherWineOutlet.com

Congrats to Covenant and Psagot

2010-04-01T22:45:00.000-07:00

Covenant from Napa Valley and Psagot from the Judean Hills have both been long time favorites of mine. They were each mentioned in major newspaper articles about kosher and Israeli wines. Congratulations to them both on the recognition! Links to the articles appear below.

On Psagot and other Judean Hills wine (Wall Street Journal)

On Covenant (New York Times)

Review of Wines Tasted at the Internation Food and Wine Festival, Oxnard, CA

2010-03-04T22:02:00.001-08:00

I was very excited to attend the 3rd annual Int'l Food and Wine Festival at the Herzog Winery in Oxnard, CA. This is pretty much a showcase for the Herzog wines and the various lines that Royal Wine imports for us into the US. Also, the restaurant located in the winery, Tierra Sur, puts out an amazing spread of fine kosher delicacies that are carefully crafted and painstakingly presented. That's really why people flock to this event. Let's be honest.

Anyway, as much as I tried to taste most of the wine that was there, I was not quite as successful as I thought I would be. The trade portion was a little crowded, and when the general public showed up, things were out of hand. One more issue was the smoke from the wood burning grill pouring into the tasting area. Forgive me if the notes have too many nuances of "smokiness" or "toasted oak." All in all, it was a fantastic and very impressive evening. It was also a pleasure to have met in person several acquaintances whom I had only spoken to on the internet.

Wines Tasted:

Binyamina:
I had a limited amount of these wines, since the ones I tried initially didn't do much for me. I think there are better values in white out there, and didn't get to the reds for the most part.
Binyamina Sauvignon Blanc: a very light wine with grassy overtones and flavors of peach and gooseberry.
Binyamina Unoaked Chardonnay: Fresh, intense flavor of lemons, almost overpowering.
Binyamina Oaked Chardonnay: Light oak flavors which tames but doesn't conquer the intense citrus flavors of lime and lemon. Nice and fresh though.
Binyamina "HaMaarah:" Didn't take any notes here. I wouldn't call it a memorable bottle, especially for the price.

Capcanes:
Special thanks to winery representative Gary L for the extra information and guidance during the tasting of these wines. Winemaker was also on hand, nice of him to shlep all the way from Spain. Quality stuff and to be taken seriously.
2005 Peraj Ha'Abib: Interesting aromas of earth and eastern spice. Still very tannic and perhaps a little harsh right now.
2007 Peraj Ha'Abib: Much stronger flavors than the 2005 and very dry as well. One for the cellar for sure.
2005 Peraj Ha'Abib from 1.5L Magnum: This wine was totally different from the same wine in 750ml format. Less tannic and much more elegant. How is that possible? I guess the wine must be benefiting from the slower pace of aging that takes place in the larger bottle. One of my favorites of the night.

Carmel
Again thanks to Gary for the detailed background and history of the winery and the numerous bottles that were presented. By the time I got here, I was only in the mood for a few tastes and asked for his suggestions.
2006 Old Vine Carignan: This wine is made from really old vines. The original winegrowers all thought it was cool to grow Mediterranean varietals, and to do so in great quantities. Then times changed, and everyone makes Cabernet Sauvignon. Well, this wine is a tribute to those days, and is excellent. Licorice flavors, but mostly dry, and an excellent mouthfeel.
2007 'Mediterranean:' The newest in the line of Limited Edition wine. Burgundian styled in terms of its delicate texture, but has some bolder flavors reminiscent of the Carignans of Corbrieres and Languedoc. An elegant "field blend." Ever had Stag's Leap Winery's "Ne Cede Malis?" It's like that, but kosher, and milder.
2006 (2007?) Sha'al Vineyard Late Harvest Gewurztraminer: Wow, spicy, zesty, syrupy sweet. Not much fruit and a lot of sugar. This is a sweetie.

Domaine du Castel:
Always a reliable performer, having been one of the first top flight performers on the high end wine scene. Presently probably a Israeli "First Growth," but these things don't last forever. The wine was good, but not as regal as it used to be, in my opinion.
2007 Blanc de Castel Chardonnay: I always had enjoyed the toastiness of Castel chard but didn't detect too much of that in this bottle. Rather light but still enjoyable. Much better than the 2006 which I thought was kind of an off year for them.
2006 Petit Castel: Could have told me this was the Grand Vin and I would have believed you. Medium bodied and with a pleasant herbal component that I associated with the Grand Vin as of my last tasting a few months ago. Very impressive improvement in this label.
2006 Grand Vin de Castel: Still has a medium-plus body but seems to have moved past the herbal and dill notes of my last tasting. A nice leather component as well. I'm not sure how long this will age but it certainly is very enjoyable now. A much more forward style of wine than say, the 2004, which was a beast upon release, or the 2005, which I didn't particularly like.

Covenant:
The winery I love to love, and with good reason. Someone had the guts to make expensive kosher wine out of Napa/Sonoma and they are doing a great job and should be supported. The wine is pricey, but when you take a look at what else is out there, I think it's a good value. Put it this way: you can spend twice as much on a Bordeaux that's made from the crap parcels and barrels, just so you can have the label (this is coming from a guy who just acquired a bottle of Lafon Rochet, oops). Or, you can spend the money on Covenant, which is a dedicated kosher establishment. Anyway, to the wines:
2008 Covenant Lavan Chardonnay: Made from grapes of a famous vineyard in Sonoma, this wine is toasty and reserved on the nose, has nectarine and citrus flavors on the palate, and has the most amazing finish. Such an intense, electric finish of citrus and pineapple. Wow. I thought it pretty much edged out the Castel Blanc for best kosher Chard, but let's see how things progress. A star in the making.
2007 Red C: Aromas of tar and dark fruit, this wine is surprisingly on the drier side and has a spicy/untamed finish. Not my thing, but plenty of people are head over heals for this one.
2007 Covenant: A nose that reaches out and slaps you in the face. The 2007 vintage was a notable one in Napa, and this wine certainly conveys that. Very tannic and full bodied, this wine is much more burly than other vintages that I have tasted (2004, 2006). The wine is fine to drink now, but will certainly hold on for years and years to come. Much better than any of the other $60-$80 kosher cabernets out there.

French Wines:
I spent most of my evening at this series of tables, trying to taste as many of these as possible. It was an enjoyable time tasting through the lineup with my friend Mr. KosherWineMusings and seeing who liked and disliked which wines. The clear winners and losers are easy to pick out, but the gray is where difference of opinions arise and discussion ensues. If everyone liked the same thing, we'd all be drinking one wine! Since I went through a lot of these wines quickly, the notes are pretty brief for some.

Whites/Rose/Dessert
Maltaverne Pouilly Fume: This is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. I didn't like it; weird chlorine notes and a little too much citrus.
Sancerre: Another Sauvignon Blanc. Interesting papaya elements but oh so thin on the palate, and not in the crisp, refreshing way. Producer unknown.
2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, L'ore de Line: Anise and honey notes, not so great, a little disappointing. But they have a monopoly on CDP-Blanc.
2008 Tavel Rose: This was a pleasant wine, bright strawbery flavors, drink now because it's not getting any better.
2003 Label Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes: I don't like most of these Chardonnays at all. This one had a weird bleu cheese thing going on. I think that either it was a bad bottle or it was just past it. Disappointing to see the same vintages on the White Burgs as two years ago...
2006 Chateau Piada Sauternes: A lighter weight contender than the Guiraud but still great quality. Botrytis is certainly pleasant with honey aromas. Not a blockbuster, but enjoyable.
1999 Guiraud Sauternes: A wine that has seen its best days as far as I'm concerned. Dark, toffee and candied pineapple, but quieter acidity. Look for the 2001 if you have the option.

Reds:
2005 Malartic Lagriviere Bordeaux: very well balanced and appealing, slightly green aftertaste but doesn't kill the experience. This was really a great bottle, which I had more notes!
2003 Sarget de Gruaud Larose: Second wine from a famous chateau. Light ruby, very appealing nose, and perfectly balanced on the palate with a great mouthfeel.
2000 La Mouline: All I had to say about this one was "funky tree fruit taste." Yikes.
2001 Fonbadet Paulliac: A not bad wine with flavors of tobacco and cranberry. Very dry.
2002 Leoville Poyferre: What started out as a great wine ended with a stewed tomato finish. Not a good thing, but could have been the bottle. Is that a trend tonight from the bottles that were overnighted from NYC moments before?
2003 Pontet Canet: Another contended for wine of the evening. This had a big nose , great mouthfeel, and powerful finish. Don't miss it!
2006 Barons de Benjamin Rothschild: Very tannic but still smooth on the way down, these wines are always a good value.
2005 Le Crock: Nothing special. Pretty light for the vintage and poor for the price.
2005 Fleur Jonquet: Light wine, strawberry and earth flavors, nothing special but nice.

Goose Bay
This is a New Zealand winery that I have admittedly not paid much (any) attention too. Whoops! I have been missing out on some great bottles of wine. Very impressive as far as I am concerned.
2008 Sauvignon Blanc: Medium bodied, great flavors and balance, and a zesty, tingly acidity.
2007 Pinot Gris: Just the slightest hint of residual sugar, but very pleasant and a little less astringency than the above.
2007 Chardonnay: Strong but not overpowering flavors of citrus, no oak, and very refreshing.
2007 Pinot Noir: Very light color, gentle fruit flavors, with oak and earth. I wouldn't call this wine complex, but it certainly is drinkable.

Herzog
Admittedly I didn't spend too much time at this table, but I wanted to try a few of the limited edition Cabernets that I did not see myself purchasing for my own consumption. There was definitely a lot of traffic at this table, and good for them, as the wines are pretty good.
2007 Clone 6 Cabernet: This was purported to be the holy grail of wine. Anyway, I thought it was ok, nothing special. I would take the Alexander Valley Cabernet over this one any day.
2007 Atlas Peak Haystack Vineyard: This wine had an exotic smell and a subtle medium body. I really did enjoy it and found it to be different that the Herzog style that I had seen up until then. Probably the best out of the super limited releases.
2006 Generation To-Kalon: This is made from really, really expensive grapes. Like buying the most expensive organic produce from Whole Foods or the like. Anyway, I wasn't tickled by this wine and consequently didn't write too much down. Plus at $160+ per bottle, it's an easy pass.

Yatir
This is a small winery in the Judean Hills (and North Negev?) that specializes in small production and absolutely delicious wine. They've been around for almost a decade and have consistently produced excellent, but pricey, wine. That said, if you're looking for a sure thing, Yatir is almost guaranteed never to disappoint.
2007 Sauvignon Blanc: Light golden color, well balanced, and a hint of sweetness. This is an excellent white wine! A little on the pricey side, but I can't imagine they made too much of it. Anyway, worth a shot if you can find it.
2005 Cabernet-Merlot-Shiraz: Very approachable with soft tannins and pleasant fruit and earth flavors. Drink now for a new more years. 2005 was a good year for this winery in my opinion.
2006 Forest: This is the flagship super-cuvee from Yatir. I found this vintage to be a little lighter in style than I would have expected for the price, with light tannins, and some unexciting astringency. Probably needs some time; these wines hold on for a while.
2005 Forest: A different beast! Much richer fruit and fuller body. I really enjoyed this one. Find it before the 2006 takes over.

Chateau de Parsac

2009-12-25T14:38:00.000-08:00

I think I've found my new favorite wine. I might be biased as I prefer Bordeaux to most other regions, but this one is truly special. It's about 80% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc. Very intense for the price point; no weird flavors of "skunk and funk" that I usually associate with cheap Merlot. Actually, there is kosher Merlot from France for a few dollars less, and the quality disparity is enormous. The wine is silky and aromatic, well balanced and drinkable, and unbelievably mevushal. Leave it to the Rothschild group to figure this one out. I tried the 2007 which I believe is the most current release. Might be able to age for a few years but this is made to be slurped right up. Enjoy!

Four Gates Winery

2009-11-26T01:02:00.000-08:00

After hearing enough about the winery, I finally called up to place my order. I was then engaged in a half hour conversation about wine making, the effect of oak, blending across vintages, and other interesting topics. Binyomin Cantz is a fascinating individual who, in his words, has three jobs: farmer, vintner, and salesman. I ordered three wines; the 2006 Merlot 'La Rochelle,' the 2006 Cabernet Franc, and the 2007 Chardonnay.

Tonight, over a plate of Celebrity brand Chevre, Chevington's Red Leicester, walnuts, and cranberries, we enjoyed the 2006 Merlot "La Rochelle.' I'm not sure if this is a vineyard designate or just the name of a companion. Anyway, the wine is very dark and opened with a strong bouquet of... oak. There wasn't much noticeable fruit for the first half hour or so as this wine took a long time to open up. It was very tannic on the palate and didn't yield an inch of its essence until much swirling and sloshing later on. Finally, after waiting an hour and filling the glass with a steady pour right into the wine (to mimic the effect of decanting) the wine finally opened up to some wonderful dark fruit flavors to balance out the still formidable but not overwhelming oak flavors. This wine is very concentrated and still extremely tannic and moderately acidic (this is three hours out already), which means there is only a wonderful long life ahead of it.

All in all, I'd say this is a wine to revisit in a year or so after some of the intensity wears off. I probably would have guessed this wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon if I was tasting it blind because of the dark, rich flavors as opposed to the more aromatic, milk chocolate overtones that I associate with Merlot. Anyway, a great experience, and a wine to try again. Only available directly from the winery.

2004 Vintage -- A World Apart

2009-11-10T18:30:00.001-08:00

I was recently able to taste two wines from the 2004 vintage which are literally a world apart. While the 04 was a great vintage here in California, other regions tended to have their issues with ripeness. While both wines were good, it was a great opportunity to compare vintages across regions.

2004 Weinstock Zinfandel, Lodi -- Dark colored wine with no signs of aging, a wonderful and powerful bouquet of cranberry, raisin, and milk chocolate. Surprisingly plush for a Zinfandel, but still has the spicy kick that makes the varietal a favorite with strong food. A little more tame than last time I tried it a year ago.

2004 Yatir Yiron Blend, Galilee -- Pleasant aromas of raspberry, but also has some mild green pepper notes. Lighter on the palate and far from tannic, this wine is pleasant and has considerably less residual sugar than the 2003 (and, maybe coincidentally, less Syrah in the blend).

Top Flight Selections Tasting

2009-09-23T22:39:00.000-07:00

Recently I decided to spoil the clients (and of course myself) by popping six higher end bottles of wine and doing some rounds of tastings.

After very thorough analysis, purple tongues, and blurry vision, here are the results:

2007 Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Vineyard: opened very toasty and dry, with a citrus rind and bitter aroma. This put people off right away. Later, the wine opened up a little bit and had nice citrus aromas and nectarine as well, and a pleasant sweet aroma. Then the pear shined through and the original toastiness of the wine rejoined us, making a very enjoyable and balanced Chardonnay.

2002 Chateau Montviel, Pomerol: This is a wine I previously reviewed a few months back and I decided to revisit it for the tasting. It was surprisingly darker than I remembered it to be; this bottle didn't have much of the bright ruby coloring of the previous one but was a little darker and more put together. The wine is very smooth and the tannins are just strong enough to keep you from gulping the glass down in one shot. A very enjoyable Bordeaux and one of the stars of the evening.

2005 Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon, Judean Hills (South): This wine was thoroughly enjoyed by all the texture and mouthfeel junkies. The wine is very full bodied and tannic. Herbal flavors that were present when the bottle was opened were still present later in the form of sage and eucalyptus notes. But as strong as the wine was, the velvety feel makes this wine drinkable even today. Some of the other participants thought this was too hot to handle in terms of the tannins and acidity, but that could be due to the mature, elegant wine that preceded it. This is the middle tier wine from Yatir- above the CMS blend and below the Forest super cuvee.

2004 Yarden Merlot, Ortal Yineyard: This wine had some very exciting aromas coming out the bottle soon after we opened it. Definitely present was the trademark (in my opinion) Yarden Merlot aroma of Grand Marnier; some warm, citrusy element that I can't identify more accurately than that. Other flavors were raspberry and other berries, crushed rocks (yes they have a smell), and a heavy but not overbearing cedar/oaky flavor. I think this wine is very enjoyable now but would be curious what 4 years has in store for it.

2006 Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, Haute Judee: Quite an elegant wine from a producer that typically makes very "big" wines. The color wasn't too dark; almost a medium ruby color that wasn't very bright at all. The nose featured fantastic aromas of flowers, liqueur, and more of a pine smell. The wine wasn't too tannic and went down very smoothly, but reflected a finesse that the other wines that evening did not possess. One interesting note is that we were able to pinpoint a taste descriptor for the wine's aftertaste: Guinness! How about that- try a nice wine and get a beer taste for free. Not a bad thing since the Guinness description lines up with the floral elements mentioned above. I would drink this wine now since I don't see it being the most long lived of Grand Vin releases. This wine is classy, simply put.

2004 Yarden Syrah, Ortal Vineyard: We had great expectations for this wine and were not disappointed. It was dubbed "perhaps the best Syrah in Israel" so of course we had to try it. This wine had an intense aroma of flowers, chocolate covered raisins, vanilla cookies, toasted oak, and other port like aromas. I don't think I have ever come up with this many aromas and descriptors from one bottle of wine like this. The wine is thick and black and is palate coating to say the least. Strong and concentrated, this wine isn't for everyone. It might be best to let it cool off for a year or two in the cellar, just to give it more time to come together. But, you might lose some of the intensity factor that is so evident right now. A wonderful selection and a wine for the cellar!

Holiday Wine Ideas

2009-09-07T11:27:00.000-07:00

Based on some recent tastings, here's what I think would be good for the holiday festivities. I've sorted them by price point, starting with the most affordable.

Barkan Merlot, Israel: Good basic wine, comes in more varieties than just Merlot for those who haven't gotten over Sideways! Great with food, try it with chicken.
W by Weinstock, California: This entry level wine steals the thunder from the memories of great Napa cabernets made by Weinstock in the past. While I have only tried their Rose (fantastic), I have heard that the red and white blends are equally as good.
Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc, California: Quick and easy white, best served cold. This goes with pretty much anything as you will drink it too quickly to notice! And at $7 per bottle, it's almost a no-brainer.
Ramon Cordova Rioja, Spain: Moving into the teens in terms of pricing, this is a full bodied red that tastes much more expensive. Very juicy and fruity, this wine requires bold cuisine like hearty stews or grilled meats.
Yarden Chardonnay 'Odem' Organic Vineyard, Israel: This is one of the top Chardonnays in Israel. When I tried it at the winery, I was very impressed, and recent vintages have been very well received as well.
Galil Yiron Red Blend, Israel: This wine has been well reviewed by the Wine Advocate, a leading wine publication, and has received 90+ point scores in the last several vintages. The wine is very aromatic and easy to drink. Should complement most cuisine and is a great deal under $25.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel: This is one of the most famous wines to come out of Israel. Dark and fruity, the wine is built to age but is always enjoyable. Always a treat.
Flechas de Los Andes Malbec, Argentina: See the review below. This is an exciting wine!

Assorted Wines Recently Enjoyed (or just consumed... )

2009-08-25T22:29:00.000-07:00

I've been trying to break the routine and try wines that I would ordinarily have no reason to buy. I pretty much know what I like and stick to it-- Bordeaux, bigger Israeli red wines, dark Syrahs, the occasional Pinot Noir, and simple white wines. So, in the spirit of learning, I tried a few unusual wines and was pleasantly surprised.

2007 Flechas de los Andes Gran Malbec -- Argentina: This is a collaboration of several large French winemakers who decided to throw a bone to the kosher consumer and let us have something else from South America that isn't Tierra Salvaje, Valero, or Alfasi (not that there's anything wrong with those). Anyway, the wine is inky purple and smells very grapey and leathery. The palate was all tannin when I first got started but kind of evolved into some other dark berries as well as plenty of great earthiness and other manly funk. This is a great wine to drink and should be enjoyed now and onto the next five or so years. Don't get freaked out by the idea of drinking a 2007 red -- they're two seasons ahead of us down there. Keeping it exotic, the Malbec was served with BBQ Bison and minute steaks. (non Mevushal)

2007 Hagafen Roussanne -- Lodi, California: This grape is a big one in the Rhone Valley in France and is making a second home for itself in Central California. This wine started with a heavy alcoholic and petrol nose which made me put this into the fridge until it simmered down. Later, another glass was had more inviting aromas of nectarine and candied citrus rind. It was very enjoyable to drink and still had a very nice amount of acidity even after I let the bottle breathe for an extended period of time. This wine is certainly spicy and is meant for food. If you are tired of Chardonnay and Sauv Blanc, give this a try. That said, the Hagafen Sauv Blanc is exceptional, and the organic Riesling isn't bad either. (Mevushal)

And because I'll drink anything if it's free:

2003 Weinstock Central Coast Cabernet: This wine hails from the glory days of Weinstock. Back when you could get a delicious Napa cabernet for under $20. Well those days are over, and this wine isn't from Napa anyway. It's still holding on-- tannins are virtually gone but the wine is soft and medium bodied and hasn't soured yet. This wine probably cost $7 on release and hasn't spoiled 4 years later, so mark that as a victory in my book. (Mevushal)

2003 Yarden El Rom Cabernet

2009-08-05T09:45:00.000-07:00

After two months underground studying for the CA Bar Exam, I am back online.

Celebrated the exam's conclusion with a bottle of 2003 Yarden El Rom Cabernet, that I had purchased in Israel at the Yarden Winery. I didn't have the greatest expectations for this bottle for a few reasons. First, I wasn't sure if it would survive the trip across the world, even though it has been stored in my cellar ever since. Also, I was worried about the sugary goodness that plagues (I think) younger Yarden cabs.

The was thick and black, and smelled very much like the regular bottling. It did have a liqueur element to it but the most remarkable thing about the smell and taste is the intensity. This wine really tasted like two or three bottles of regular cabernet compressed into one. The El Rom must be a remarkable vineyard and I see why they are making a single vineyard version. 2003 wasn't my favorite Yarden vintage in general, even though they were quite proud of it. I can't wait to try to the 2004 El Rom. This is certainly one to seek out.

2003 Yarden El Rom Cabernet Sauvignon: Medium sweet aromas of cherry and blackberry with some oak and spice. The wine is pretty much black and extremely viscous. Peppery flavors upfront but they yield to eastern spice. Very smooth even though it's still quite tannic, but it goes down a little too quickly for an expensive bottle. One of the more potent bottles of kosher wine I have had occasion to drink-- much more masculine than the top tier Bordeaux. Drink over the next 5 years, but very good now.

Forgive me!

2009-06-14T21:15:00.000-07:00

I have gotten some complaints about the lack of blogging as of late! As some of you know, I am studying for the CA Bar Exam right now, which leaves little time for many things, especially drinking. But, I am still trying to twitter, so you can follow me there for the time being. Check me out at twitter.com/kosherwino

2000 Yarden Merlot - Golan Heights, Israel

2009-05-17T09:35:00.000-07:00

As many of you have seen on my website, I have a new assortment of Yarden "Library" selections that are available. One of them that I recently tried was the 2000 Merlot. Wines from cooler climate areas, like the high elevation Golan Heights in Israel, tend to have more concentrated flavors since the grapes are smaller, and have a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This makes the wine deeper and darker, and sometimes more age-worthy. This wine is certainly at it's peak right now, with those dark flavors becoming a little lighter, and revealing some spicy complexity that comes with age. This is definately a treat to enjoy with baked chicken, lamb stew, or other spiced meats. Definately needs some time to breathe, so be patient and this wine will deliver!

2000 Yarden Merlot, Golan Heights: Almost a cross between ruby and garnet, this wine is a little cloudy from the sediment in the bottle. The wine opened with some pretty strong aromas of strawberry jam, but also had a weird curry smell that was a little intense. But, I was patient and waited a good hour or so before trying it again. After all, it's been in that bottle for 8 years, and needs some room to open up. Later on, the stink was gone, and the wine was tasting great! More strawberry flavors, a little chocolate, and a tolerable amount of eastern spice. This wine is meant to be enjoyed with food, and went really well with Baked Chicken in Apricot Sauce.

Supermarket Gems

2009-05-17T09:09:00.000-07:00

It's always fun to visit another town and poke around the local stores, seeing what wines might turn up. I have observed that in areas where people are less likely to buy higher end wines, there is the distinct possibility that you might find some older bottles that are otherwise no longer in circulation. That's simply because when the store ordered x amount of cases of fancy wine a few years ago, no one bought it, so they never reordered it. So you end up with all kinds of interesting wines that are three or four vintages behind the current release. The problem is that with respect to long term storage, wines aren't meant to age standing up and in direct light most of the day. This can cause the wine to age a little faster than usual, which can create some weird flavors. Anyway, the positive side is that you get to try a rare bottle of wine, and the negative side is that there's no guarantee that the wine is in ideal shape (not that there ever is, but it's all relative).

Recently in Las Vegas, I found some interesting rare gems in a local grocery store. Some of them included '03 Baron Chenin Late Harvest, '03/'04 Castel Chardonnay, '01 Weinstock Cabernet, to name a few. Being a sucker for the Chenin, and having never tried the 2003, I bought a bottle and tried it. Plus, how could I resist, given that I've tried the 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007? Tasting note follows, and with that, happy hunting!

2003 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc Late Harvest: Kind of quiet in the nose department, still very sweet with pronounced honey and pineapple flavors, little acidity and not so much spice or floral elements. I'm sure that a properly stored bottle would have been a little different. Still a pleasant bottle of wine; I would put this as number four or five out of the five vintages of this wine that I've tasted.

Back Vintages of Late Harvest Chenin Blanc

2009-04-23T09:36:00.001-07:00

I was fortunate to try two back vintages of Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, side by side, at the Tierra Sur restaurant in Oxnard, CA. I had the 2004 and the 2005, which is one of my favorite dessert wines of all time. The colors are similar; both still a pale yellow, without any deep yellow or gold tones. But the noses are remarkably different: the 2004 is fresher and has massive aromas of fresh Fuji apple and some floral notes, while the 2005 is all honey with tropical fruit. I have had both of these wines before, but tasting them side by side helps one appreciate the importance of vintage, and the effect of time on the bottle. 2005 was a much hotter year in California, and while 2004 was a more even, successful vintage overall (especially for California Cabernet), this might not have been conducive to the over-ripening of the Chenin Blanc. Anyway, if you see these older bottles anywhere, grab them. And save some for me.

2004 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: still a pale yellow, fresh fruit notes, very pleasant but not overly sweet or sticky. Would pair nicely with a fruit tart or just fresh fruit with nuts and goat cheese. Very nice.

2005 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc: this wine is also pale, but has powerful sweet aromas of honey, pineapple, and a little spice/funk (which could indicate botrytis, the Noble Rot). Rich, thick, and heavy, you have to respect this wine for its intensity. It would pair very nicely with almond tarts or rich double or triple cream Brie. Might even be able to stand up to some light chocolate desserts too.

Two Bordeaux from the 2002 Vintage

2009-04-20T13:11:00.001-07:00

I was fortunate to have enjoyed two very special, rare Bordeaux from the generally unremarkable 2002 vintage. This was a special learning experience: since the miserable weather in Bordeaux was on both sides of the river, it allows an apples to apples comparison of the region's different styles of wine. For those who aren't Bordeaux experts, the region is split into several parts, but the biggest distinction is between the Left Bank, which is Cabernet dominated, and the Right Bank, which is Merlot dominated. Sometimes the weather is great on one side and not the other, so you can have a great year for the left and bad for the right, and vice versa. Since Merlot is usually picked earlier in the season than Cabernet, a late harvest rain storm can destroy the Cab while the Merlot is already fermenting. You get the idea.

Anyway, the wines were a 2002 Pontet Canet (Pauillac) and a 2002 Chateau Montviel (Pomerol). These are both made by companies that produce mainly non kosher wine, with a special batch set aside for the kosher consumer. The wines get mostly the same treatment. Both wines were very classy and elegant. Each represented its respective region; the Pontet Canet was darker and had tar/graphite notes, while the Montviel was smooth and very approachable. These are two wines that are not to be missed! Check them out.

2002 Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac: Wonderful aromas of cranberry, tobacco, and graphite. Great balance between the earthiness and fruit. You can tell that there is a nice amount of Cabernet in this wine. Still a little tannic, but much better than it was when I tried it over a year ago. Definitely drinkable now, and will go for another 9+ years. A great surprise.

2002 Chateau Montviel, Pomerol: This wine is made by the producers of Ch. Le Gay and others in Pomerol. Delicious aromas of strawberry, milk chocolate, and the slightest bit of espresso. A touch of earthiness but nothing green and unappealing. The texture of this wine is worth the price of admission; it's very smooth and velvety. Drink now and for another five years, when the light ruby color of this wine will gradually fade to an orangy brick.

Passover Wines Part 2

2009-04-20T13:02:00.001-07:00

Continuing the festival, here are some more comments:
2005 Psagot Edom Blend - Jerusalem Hills: This wine tastes like it contains more Merlot that it really does, with great juiciness and fresh berry flavors. Very light on the oak, which I appreciated, but a touch too sweet for my palate. Everyone else was over the moon for it though. Definately a good "new world" wine from an ancient region.
2004 Eagle's Landing Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa: This is supposed to be a special project wine from Joe Hurliman, winemaker at Baron Herzog. There is no appellation or vineyard specified, just the general Napa designation. The wine still resembles the over-oaked Herzog style, which I can't relate to. While not mevushal, it still tastes a little dull.
2005 Baron Herzog Merlot- Central Coast: Pleasant cocoa and berry notes, but a little watery and unexciting. These entry levels should usually be enjoyed within three years of vintage label. I enjoyed the 2004 a while back, but have not tried the 2006.
2006 Baron Herzog Old Vine Zinfandel - Lodi: Still light and enjoyable, definately a crowd pleaser.

Passover Wines Update

2009-04-14T09:04:00.000-07:00

Between two seders, Shabbos, and the rest of the holiday, one tends to move through quite a bit of wine. Even though most of the wine is relatively inexpensive (since it is enjoyed in quantity), you don't always run into noteworthy bottles. But we were sure to source out a few gems to brighten up the festivities. Even the cheap wines deserve a review! In no particular order:

2008 Bartenura Malvasia: Pleasant, fruity, mild berry flavors. Not as sweet as it has been in vintages past, which may be a good thing for some people. Serve it cold and try to avoid decanting since you will sacrfice some of the bubbles.
2008 Baron Herzog White Zinfandel: Man, I was pretty upset about this wine. After all my efforts to specifically source the newest vintage, the wine was a real dud. It's a very pale pink this year, and has more grapefruit flavors than the sweet berry and candy notes that are usually prevalent. The change to a lighter style was not welcome by my guests. See, there are distinctions to be made, even when talking about White Zin!
2005 Mt Tabor Sauvignon Blanc: Again, this wine is showing well and really needs food to balance out the strong flavors. We had it with poached Salmon with dill sauce, and it was a nice pairing to the richness of the fish. The acidity also cleaned out the fish taste at the end of the course. And yes, there is acidity in this wine, even though it's a 2005.
2002 Cheval-Brun, St. Emilion, Bordeaux: This is a very expensive wine, and I should have let it breathe for longer before pouring, but oh well. It was not showing well and had green flavors of olive and bell pepper. Anyway, since it's so expensive, I'm sure it isn't as unexciting as it appeared to be, so we'll give it another whirl sometime when I can use the decanter, etc.
2007 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc Late Harvest: Very light this year, with more tree fruit flavors than tropical and honey. Enjoyable with fresh berries and ice cream, but it will probably get better over time. I still think the 2005 was the best I've had out of the 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007.
2006 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Zinfandel: Also light, cherry flavors, slightly medicinal. This wine really isn't my thing, but the people at the meal were enjoying bottle after bottle. This reminds me that just because I don't like something, doesn't make it bad!
2001 Chateau Piada Sauternes: mild aromas of apricot jam with rind and candied grapefruits on the palate. A little bit of botrytis was evident, but the wine was a little funky as a result of improper storage. I would need another bottle to make a real judgment about this wine, but I'm also really picky when it comes to Sauternes (white Bordeaux dessert wine).

Wedding Wine Tasting

2009-04-05T11:39:00.001-07:00

Any time you have the occasion to sit around with friends and open, say, a case and a half of wine, it's an opportunity not to be missed. In honor of the wedding of our friends Aaron and Jesica, I picked out over a dozen wines that were in the under $15 category and the best value for the money. There were some big surprises! Snacks included cheddar cheese, herbed cream cheese spread, 'Breton' and Cabaret' crackers, strawberries, and 'Samoa' Girl Scout cookies. All the wines listed below are mevushal.

We started with the Whites:
2007 Herzog Chateneuf White Bordeaux: This is a semi dry wine that is made of Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. It is light and refreshing, crisp, with sweet pear and honey flavors. Very pleasant and easy to drink.
2008 Hagafen Sauvignon Blanc, Napa: This is a very exciting bottle of wine. In your face aromas of nectarine and grapefruit rind. Very fresh on the palate and leaves you wanting another sip. Some people didn't like the rind flavors but it was enjoyed by others.
2005 Mt. Tabor Sauvignon Blanc, Israel: This was much drier than the Hagafen, also plenty of rind flavors and a mild smoke element. The people who didn't like the Hagafen liked this one. A little fluffier as well.
2003 Mt. Tabor Chardonnay, Israel: This was kind of a wildcard wine. More mature flavors and a complexity that didn't work for everyone but would certainly be more enjoyable with roast chicken or a rich pasta with pesto. Serve it cold.
2007 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc: I've always loved this wine. So fruity, so easy, so smooth. The mild sugar element was a bit to much when you are trying to please a crowd who is used to non-kosher wine. Still a winner though.
2006 Baron Herzog Chardonnay: Another quality bottle of wine! Classic chardonnay green apple and citrus flavors, a little creamy, and reasonably full bodied. This a wine that formed the greatest consensus.
2007 Bartenura Pinot Grigio: not that exciting, kind of dull for the vintage, maybe the 2008 will be better?
2007 Hagafen Riesling Lake County (Organic): Great honey and pineapple aromas. Sweet on the palate, but I was looking for more acidity. Another favorite of the tasting, since it would complement some of the cuisine that will be served at the wedding.

Result: Baron Herzog Chardonnay, Hagafen Riesling, Hagafen Sauvignon Blanc.

Moving to the Reds:
2007 Segal's Fusion, Israel: This was a surprise for me. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Bright, bright ruby and beautiful floral and sweet berry aromas. Fresh and flavorful on the palate, no noticeable oak, very drinkable. And a killer value at under $10.
2005 Barkan Merlot, Israel: Another pleasant wine, very simple but elegant. Smooth and enjoyable without that cheap Merlot funk. Definately had some consensus behind it.
2005 Moulin de Noalliac: This is a good Bordeaux, but was showing poorly. I think the bottle was bad since it had some very sinister aromas.
2004 Mt. Tabor Merlot, Israel: A personal favorite, this is a very smooth Merlot that you could mistake for a Cab-Merlot Blend. Nice flavors, a hint of oak, and pretty mellow since it has some bottle age.
2004 Mt. Tabor Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel: A respectable bottle of wine with typical Cabernet flavors and a good backbone. I prefer the Merlot.
2006 Baron Herzog 'Old Vines' Zinfandel: This is a big, bad, bold wine. Grapey flavors, earthiness, and spice. This showed very well and developed quite a following. Needs to be paired with bold cuisine to balance it out.
2007 Ramon Cardova Rioja: Another powerful wine, this is bright purple with incredible aromatics. Very energetic and inky. If you haven't tried Rioja before, this is a good place to get started. Candied strawberries and flowers are all over the place with a little spiced kick. Might not work for everyone, but no one could deny that it was good.

Result: Barkan Merlot, Baron Herzog Zin, Cardova Rioja.

2002 Yarden Syrah...Festival of Deliciousness

2009-04-02T21:29:00.000-07:00

Finally was able to take the time to open this bottle and re-taste it after not having had it for quite some time. From my experience, the 2002 vintage in Israel was quite good-- I tried the Castel lineup back then when they were first making the transition to kosher, and I still am keeping a bottle for later on. The Yarden 2002 Cabernet, which I've had plenty of times, has also been good to me.

But this bottle is my secret. The Yarden Syrah is probably better than the Cab in some respects. The Yarden Cabernet can sometimes produce some weird green pepper flavors and a certain rubber flavor that doesn't always agree with me (not evident in the 2004, which I enjoyed more than the 2003). The Syrah is all class. Elegent aromas of coffee and chocolate right out of the glass, after about an hour of sitting on the counter breathing. It almost smells like Cabernet, but has a certain perfume element that makes it more unique. Also some nice peppery notes on the finish. Yeah, this is some good Syrah. It might be worthwhile to track down some of their single vineyard stuff to find out if it's really worth the extra bucks. But at $19 or so, this wine is a no brainer to me. Should be good for another couples years, too.

Impromptu Tasting of Assorted White Wines

2009-03-27T10:10:00.001-07:00

I had the opportunity to taste a few selections from the Abarbanel line. Unfortunately, everything is always a little behind with respect to vintage year, but that can leave room for surprises. I tried the 2006 Pinot Blanc and 2006 Gewurztraminer, both from Alsace. The Pinot Blanc was a little on the dry side but had some nice aromas of cooked fruit. Very low acidity though. The Gewurz had a hint of residual sugar and some spiciness, just enough to let you know the varietal but not enough to make it exciting. These wines were both passable, but not thrilling. I also had a few old bottles of Moscato from Israel. I'm curious about the winemaking style used to makle these selections: they had all kinds of nutty and alcoholic flavors that was reminiscent of Vin Santo, an Italian dessert wine that's aged for years. Not for me though. I'll take my moscato from Italy, or from Golan Heights Winery (in non-Shmitta years).

I was pleasantly surprised by the 2005 Mount Tabor Sauvignon Blanc. It had some great freshness and acidity, especially for a wine of that age. While ordinarily I try to stick within 2 years of the curernt vintage, this wine is still kicking and tastes great. Smooth texture and aromas of grapefruit and sweet lemons. Remind me to post it on the Whites Page.

Wines That DON'T Get Better With Age

2009-03-23T14:46:00.000-07:00

Over Shabbos, we enjoyed some typical wines that make their way to a host's table as a result of having many guests over: Herzog Wine Zin, Jeunesse, Moscato, etc. Most of the vintages were current, but I did try a bottle of 2005 Bartenura Moscato. This bottle is about three vintages behind since the current release is the 2008 (which I have not tried). This wine is made pressing tons and tons of grapes, letting it ferment into sweet wine in huge steel containers, and then bottled like soda following a process that artificially creates the bubbles (unlike natural bubbles in Champagne). There is nothing complex about this process. The wine is made to drink right away and does not have any of the necessary structure that creates added complexity over time. Getting better with age is a result of a good vintage year, high quality grapes, and a winemaking style that promotes ageability. White Zin and Moscato? They have a shelf life, not a future. While still tasty, they are easily bested by their newer counterparts. This Passover, watch out when you are picking your wines. While some are meant to age, most are made to consume.

Kosher Skirt Steak Experiment -- Double/Double

2009-03-20T09:30:00.000-07:00

The objective was to enjoy a marinated skirt steak without the intense amounts of salt that are absorbed by this cut in the kashering process. After last time's wine soak didn't do much, this time I did a double soak in water for three hours, and changing the water half way through. Then, I did my wine and dijon marinade for two hours, then removed and washed the meat, discarded the marinade, and made a fresh marinade. We had a degree of success this time, since the meat was significantly less salty than times past. But, still a ways to go. I think next time I'll try a longer water soak, and a longer first soak in the wine marinade.

In terms of grilling, all the steak needed was 3-4 minutes per side on the grill at around 500 degrees. Slightly pink in the middle and plenty of beefy flavor. We enjoyed it with artichokes and boiled red new potatoes. Yum!

Two South African Reds from Eshkol Winery

2009-03-17T23:49:00.000-07:00

Over the last couple days, I've been tasting and re-tasting two wines from Eshkol, down in South Africa. The first is a blend called 'Sheba' which is mainly Cab and Syrah, and does not specify a vintage year. The second is labeled as purely cabernet, and it's dated 2003. I think the Sheba is similarly aged.

The Sheba is pretty flat and tastes old. There is little fruit and a whole lot of sour wine flavors going on. I think the importer had a dump fest when it wouldn't sell in South Africa. That isn't to say that it wasn't good at one time, but that time has come and gone.

The Cabernet still has some life, and vaguely reminds me of some of the older Gan Eden Cabernets. Cranberry and tar aromas and a very plush palate make this enjoyable to drink. I think it needs food to take the edge off. I would give a tentative recommendation to the Cabernet, provided it shows well with food. I am planning on bringing this to a wedding wine tasting that I am hosting for some of my clients next week, so we'll see what they have to say. The other label in the picture was not sampled. (Photo courtesy: Abarbanel)

2000 Filius de Chateau Patris

2009-03-14T23:05:00.000-07:00

Over Shabbos, I enjoyed a bottle of 2000 Filius de Chateau Patris. It's the second wine from Ch. Patris in St. Emilion, Bordeaux. The year 2000 was one of the better years in recent history, although it has been almost forgotten in light of the epic 2005 vintage (2003 has also been forgotten in the marketplace, although it's really good too).

Anyway, the wine has sweet aromas of raspberry and oak, and great flavors like dark berries and orange peel. This is trademark Right Bank Bordeaux for me... the orange peel. Finishes with a hint of strawberry that makes you certain that this is mostly Merlot.

If you have never tried a mature wine before, this is the one. It's not in your face or overly acidic. Just a mellow, comfortable wine that pairs nicely with most meats. Easy to drink since it's extremely smooth. A real winner for the next two years plus!

(Photo Credit: JJBuckley)

Purim 2

2009-03-11T14:16:00.000-07:00

Well the wine festival I had planned got bumped lower on the priority list when other activities presented themselves. Since Purim is supposed to be fun, I picked up a few bottles of Herzog Wine Zin, tossed them in a freezer for a while, and headed to the party. The wine went great with ... what did we eat last night? That said, the 2007 White Zin is definitely tired and on it's way out. Hopefully they won't hold onto the 2008 and finally release it into the market. At least the 2007 Chenin Blanc is available, and delicious!

Purim Wines Part 1

2009-03-09T21:47:00.000-07:00

Starting off tonight (even though there's no obligation to drink, but whatever) with a nice bottle of 2006 Herzog Chardonnay. This is not the Reserve Chard which I cannot stand since it is way too over-oaked. This is your run of the mill, $10 in the grocery store, kosher Chardonnay. And it's good! Great aromas of sweet lemon and granny smith apple, and perfectly tart on the palate with a drop of residual sugar. Why would you spend three times more on a wine that tastes like an old pencil?

That said, I tried a wonderful aged Chardonnay from Tabor. This wine is still kicking even though it is from the 2003 vintage in Israel (which was a good vintage, but still, it's a white). Not as acidic as my fresh Herzog friend over here, but still fresh.

Two Reds from Tabor Winery

2009-01-20T09:49:00.000-08:00

I recently had two wines from Tabor Winery from the Galilee in Israel. I tried the 2004 Merlot and the 2004 Cabernet from their entry line of "Tabor" wines. These wines each spend 4 months in oak, and are on the market one year after the vintage date. Since the winery is currently on the 2007 vintage, these bottles have had a nice amount of bottle age. I liked the Merlot better, since it was lighter on the oak than the Cabernet, which definitely put off some of my dining partners that evening ("smells like a cigar box," one said). They took a long time to open up, which is a mixed message. Good because the wine blossomed slowly and was able to last for several days after being opened, with no significant drop in quality. The bad news is that if you are having a large party, the wine might not show that well in the first minutes (hour?) after the waiters pop the corks. Given that the wine is mevushal and relatively inexpensive ($8-9 wholesale), this is something to note. Either way, I'm a fan of these wines and would recommend them for dinner parties or where you just want to pop something. The Merlot is good for cooking. Oak fans should check out the Cab.

Info

2002 Aloxe-Corton, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut

2009-01-13T09:45:00.000-08:00

There is a pretty serious void in the world of kosher Pinot Noir. I have tried most of the Israeli wines like Yarden and Gamla, as well as the new Russian River Pinot from Baron Herzog. I have also tried two vintages of Francois Labet's Chateau de La Tour Clos Vougeot. I found the former new world wines too sweet and fruity, and the latter to be overpriced for what you get. The domaine mainly makes non-Kosher wine but seemed to have made a Kosher cuvee in the 2002 vintage.

This wine is enjoyable; nice flavors of plum and cherry, along with burnt sugar and orange peel. Enough earthiness and slight minerality to make you believe it is from France. The color has a tinge of brick, which can be expected from a seven year old village wine. Even after five days open in the bottle, this wine still had some fruit left and was palatable. I would say drink now and for the next 7 years. Went well with lamp shanks from the slow cooker.

Drawback: this wine is pricey, with wholesale in the mid $50s. Then again, the next tier of kosher Burgundy takes you into the triple digits. The Domaine also makes another pinot from the Ladoix appellation which is half the price, and which I have not yet tried. Bottom line: as far as I know, this is the best QPR for Kosher Burgundy, if those terms can be in the same sentence. Other option: buy and try some of the really old Yarden Pinots and see if they are any good.